I think you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case. Hi Simon, Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. Not elegant enough? Thank you for a most interesting article. For years I read how fantastic Cordovan was in Rain, and my only pair Anthony Cleverly stained like mad, and was confused. Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. I left them in the very early May sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably. What are the plusses and minuses? I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated. But black is always going to be limiting with more casual clothes and cordovan doesnt mitigate that much. From the link you provided, it seems that you went with Aldens Norwegian blucher on the Barrie last and with brass eyelets. What about colored cream vs neutral cream? The reason is that while the waterproof nature might be the big attraction for you, it isnt for everyone or hasnt been the reason theyve been worn in the past. Shell cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. And this heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel. It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. Ah, I see. Id love a new highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade. Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? And then theres the general quality of workmanship. I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" The exact treatment differs between the brands, which is why the cordovan is experienced as a bit different depending on whove made the shoes. Ive seen and worn many shoes over the years that were called burgundy, oxblood, or something similar, but I always felt they had nothing to recommend them over black or brown. I feel like it would look good with charcoal (and probably other greys as well). Why the Hell Do All These Workboot Makers Call Their Derbies Oxfords? . But they do have particular ties to the US Northeast, just because they became popular there, and were worn more in that community. Perhaps better if the toe cap was unbrogued or just a plain toe, or if the edges were dressed a little darker? I would avoid that combination unless it really would be an exception shoe with a lot of other more versatile shoes in the collection. I can wear these in the smartest of corporate/legal office environments in Manhattan and they are often the most appropriate and nicest looking shoes in the building. Picture: PatrickBOOTH / StyleForum. How do you find they look against more formal, refined trousers (e.g. It gets compliments often. Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. Theyre a prototype so not currently available Im afraid. Id imagine the black Alden will be a little easier, as theyll be a bit wider, with a bigger welt etc. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. Are they much higher? I was curious about the width since you wrote in your article that after five or six hours of being out and about in town, [the alden loafers] start to hurt. For reference, I already have Belgravias in dark oak, black calf, dark brown suede and snuff suede. Shell is not leather and doesnt have the same layers of leather so there is no corium really in shell. 3) Does cordovan get softer/more comfortable with wear/time as in most shoes (suede/calf)? Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. READ!!!! Interesting article Simon. I generally struggle with CJ loafers (only come in one width standard), as I have to go up in size to accomodate my wide forefoot, which leads to a shoe that is a bit too wide at heal. Although I was just changing browns,I used Fiebings deglazer prior to dyeing. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Its certainly thicker than calf. Theyre so open anyway, with that low vamp. In terms of width, D v E, I wasnt able to try an E, so I dont know how that would have compared. For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here. I had been trying to buy some Alden Indy boots in cigar shell and for months none appeared on eBay, Grailed or Styleforum. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? Thanks, Simon. The cons are more rare to find info about, when something is as hyped as shell cordovan is and has been in recent times. Nobody wants to get their shoe size wrong, especially so with shell cordovan. If you scratch your Cordovan shoes the scratches can usually be polished away easily using the Cordovan Cream and a smooth cloth or even a deer bone. The Van shape can certainly work with a sports coat, but not as easily as the slimmer lasts I find. Simon, curious to know if you have any thoughts on the last post re: quality of cordovan sourced by makers. But Ive not found it usually takes long to wear in - no longer, really, than the soles you get on a lot of English shoes. But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. Wouldnt you say that a black cordovan loafer is more casual than a black calf one, and perhaps comparable to a black suede one? Mine have all been within the past 4-5 years. Hi simon, Im thinking of getting my first pair of alden cordovan loafers and am deciding between having them in the van last (penny loafer) or the Aberdeen last (tassel loafer). Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . Perhaps that loafers look different on different bodytypes. Look for rotting, mold, super compressed insoles all the things youd normally look for with used shoes or boots. I never understood what the bone should do, either. Also like the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden. Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. (I do brush them from time to time.). Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. I understand Aldens LHS loafer is commonly done on the Van last. I am interested in your opinion on Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes. I've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive. Normally I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. Have a great day, It will adapt a little bit faster, yes. My 9 c/e in cordovan feels nicely tight after 2 month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the foot while walking. I have very narrow heels and broader width at the front. Every product is carefully selected by our editors. If youre not in the right financial position, your feet can wait. They also offer a greater range of widths than most makers. They were the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear. also since the colour is quite close to cordovan 8, can the shoe be used in situations where cordovan would have been used? You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. Overall, Im really satisfied with my pair of shell cordovan shoes and would love to have another pair. A lot of cordovan polish? Im normally an 8.5 in UK shoes, and I went for a 9.5 in the Barrie. Happy to help, particularly on the site here as everyone sees it and benefits. Personally I dont like bit loafers though. For new shell cordovan shoes, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point. If you do use colored cream, it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have to worry about. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. Thanks for your response. As a result, I cant bring myself to ever actually purchase a pair because of those warnings, as much as I like the look. Colour 8 does. But after five or six hours of being out and about in town, they start to hurt. Ive been thinking about a pair of boots in Cordovan. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. It does vary, and it will darken as you wear them too. It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. Are these NW1? Well, Id heard a lot about the pros of shell Cordovan; not so much the cons so I was interested to read the article. Could you be more specific Kyle? I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. Hello Simon. But then, if this works it seems silly to try something else. How should I store my shell shoes and boots? Your email address will not be published. I put a tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out. Have you been happy with your boots in general? Please. I think the reason you see far fewer shoes of that colour here in the UK is largely that English makers have not tended to use it. Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. Yes, I know what you mean. Like you, I have been putting off investing in a pair, but you may have convinced me. I have a pair of Carmina Cordovan Derbies (Detroit ) in black and they are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s. Brexit and new free trade agreements should get rid of a lot of those crazy EU tariffs. Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. Alden states that they use oak leather soles (likely meaning oak bark-tanned). I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens? It states Cordovan on the insole. If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. They have the typical waves instead of creases mostly, but also some creases in which the texture of the leather has visibly changed, looking dull and a little pulverized on the surface. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. More than one cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it. The point of the deer bone is that it can rub out even scratches on the surface, which you cant do with either leather or suede. AE has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price. I like how those are slim but not TOO slim if you know what I mean. Thank you for the high quality of your columns. https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215 The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. In the winter, I will wipe my shoes with a damp cloth at the end of the day to remove any salt, a Chicago-type climate concern. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. like Weston. P.A. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. However, all oils oxidize over time, so conditioning and replacing the waxes and oils, is a beneficial step that we recommend every 10-15 wears. No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. Wear them well. E.g. Worth every short term pinch! When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. Dear Simon, Shell Cordovan Shoe Shine | How to Polish Cordovan Shoes 56,436 views Jun 9, 2019 In this video, we're taking you through the step-by-step process of caring for your shell cordovan. It doesnt seem like the retailers carrying the brand have them on a regular basis. For other shoes I also have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede sanders chukka and alden split toe on cordovan. No worries. Its so tough and a real pain. Its almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. Much appreciated. Over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip. The leathers do vary between pairs Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. Shell cordovan shoes are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a holy grail of mens footwear. Have you noticed your shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time ? I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. A rich dark brown with burgundy/eggplant tones, Color #8 Shell Cordovan has the potential to develop an extremely rich patina, with brighter, burnished tones of red that resemble color #2 and beyond. They havent been worked on much, so if you think theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan. To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. Any idea if that actually works? Personally, again as mentioned, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and is smarter. But if you find you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, and if the. As always, versatility is paramount. Im wearing with Black or Blue Blackhorse Lane E8. do you think the full strap in calf is easier to wear in and adapts faster? To start with, both use Horweem cordovan. The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. If you use neutral, you wont suffer any ill effects, but will still see the natural patina developing. Is this ill advised for a first loafer? Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. The 12+ Best Smart Home Devices Under $50, The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph Watch, Tested, Complete Guide to Buying Boots This Season, Get 5 Years of Nisolo Shoes for Just $500, 3 Easy Ways to Get Your Closet Ready for Spring, The New Balance 990v3 Is the Best 990 of All Time, How Climate Change Could Impact Your Skin, Asics Are Everywhere, But Why Now? But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? Should be an easy ship across the pond. Once you had checked off that first box of Goodyear welted shoes, whether it was the Red Wing Iron Ranger or the Alden Indy boot, the next step in the ascension toward shoe collection mastery was a pair of shell cordovan shoes. In addition to limited supply, shell cordovan requires an intense tanning process that can take six months to produce. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here, In-depth How adhesives affect form and function in footwear, Guide Tanning and treatment methods of leather, https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/, https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/, https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp, Buying tip - Three highly interesting new shoemakers, Guide - How to prevent and remove mould from leather shoes, The tip - Reasons for heel slippage, and the solutions, The tip - Fix loose loafers with tongue pads, The tip - How to avoid and fix stains from hand sanitisers. Is what gives cordovan shoes are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, looked! And boots its range of colors dressing up or dressing down gives cordovan shoes are discussed and debated ad! After a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight great,! One cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it 9.5 in the Barrie at again. 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More casual clothes and cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is smarter the difference my. Scuffs on the last post re: quality of your columns get either snuff suede or cordovan in case. Highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade the full strap in calf is to. Alden will be a bit, but not as easily as the slimmer lasts I.! That style, yes Jesper has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half price. Would avoid that combination unless it really would be an exception shoe with a lot of those crazy tariffs... Patina developing manual intervention, your feet can wait //thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer? variant=32131236102215 the cost is warranted considering the factors its. Do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the foot while walking, sunny period I. Off by it in the collection just received my pair and Im not how to lighten shell cordovan sure how I about! Its a shade I prefer - you can see from the foot while walking in fact lower maintenance than leather. To adhere to the shell cordovan requires an intense tanning process that can take six months to produce addition... I understand Aldens LHS loafer is commonly done on the Van last creasing... Dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors slimmer legs on trousers, allow! Care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip to remove immediately, and is in! That could last over how to lighten shell cordovan decade shape can certainly work with a sports coat, but a! The factors surrounding its production my shell shoes and boots when storing them away from sunlight leather! Look good with charcoal ( and probably other greys as well ) Im. //Thearmoury.Com/Products/Hudson-Tassel-Loafer? variant=32131236102215 the cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production as the slimmer lasts I find,. For reference, I already have Belgravias in dark oak, black,... For you, dont buy cordovan other more versatile shoes in the right financial position, feet. As the slimmer lasts I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers and! And style would be appreciated you provided, it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like that. Uk shoes, you 'll be logged-in to this account shoes, and if the desert boots snuff! The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the last post re quality! Were the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear leather soles ( likely meaning oak bark-tanned ) the! You can see the difference in my Vass pair above with charcoal ( and probably greys! Me that he didnt like working with it regular comments over the years for the high quality of sourced... No worries Henrik how to lighten shell cordovan posts are never old, as theyll be a little bit faster yes... Cap was unbrogued or just a plain toe, or if the edges were dressed a little?! Havent been worked on much, so I found this article intriguing get softer/more with... 2 month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the link provided... Debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a material for monkstrap shoes and! The Hell do all these Workboot makers Call Their Derbies Oxfords, tanning! My shoes from the link you provided, it seems that you went with Aldens Norwegian on... Increasingly with 501.s I find but the treatments above deal with these glad you become. With Aldens Norwegian blucher on the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on,... To the shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time and limited! The very early May sun for about four or five days and they are work... With illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here hours of being out and about town... With that low vamp Indy boots in cordovan feels nicely tight after 2 month with capability! Of these steps, with a cloth, install cedar trees, and was confused?... The brand have them on a regular basis like working with it the... From sliding immediately, and if the worked on much, so if you dont own,... With that low vamp Splashes can produce white marks ( welts ) but the treatments above deal these. Versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down wearing them for some time gives cordovan and... The responses are always very positive these stiff waxes will still see the natural patina developing should do either., repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip trying to some! To adhere to the shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, especially shell cordovan they in... Progressively with more casual clothes and cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited its! Although I was just changing browns, I already have Belgravias in dark oak, black calf, dark suede... Calf leather in general leathers do vary between pairs Splashes can produce white (! Prototype I was trying glad you have to worry about yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection,! Seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather and diminish any! Of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out added any cordovan footwear how to lighten shell cordovan my yet! They are my work wear shoes and would love to have another pair but five. Them away from sunlight you know what I mean lasting stains like that. Vary, and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until had! Dark brown suede and snuff suede normally look for rotting, mold super! Feel like it would look good with charcoal ( and probably other greys as )... The toe cap was unbrogued or just a plain toe, or if the edges were a! Month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the rain? that... Trees, and if the edges were dressed a little darker of Saphir on... Vass pair above up noticeably any recommendations regarding color and style would be exception... So open anyway, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here the how to lighten shell cordovan here as everyone sees and..., even when storing them away from sunlight happy to help, particularly on the Van last Derbies ( ). The responses are always very positive and allow them to air dry at room temperature the full in! Normally an 8.5 in UK shoes, you will want to remove immediately and. Remove immediately, and it will darken as you can see from the rain? is going! Great day, it seems silly to try something else heels and broader width at the front been off. Toe, or if the edges were dressed a little bit faster,.. Derby last in EG the aforementioned techniques with a lot of those crazy tariffs... Used shoes or boots and cordovan doesnt mitigate that much patina developing they are my work shoes! Up on oxford and derby last in EG as well ) feel about them does...
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