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In 1996, the first fur seal pup was recorded on the refuge, according to FWS. [32], Three people successfully swam from the Farallones to the Golden Gate, with two more swimming to points north of the gate. and "Shark attack!" 12. Youre not technically forbidden from visiting Home Reef in the South Pacific. Scientists at Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary are setting up equipment off of the Farallon Islands to monitor the ocean's surface temperature. Next: If you dont love venomous snakes, you definitely dont want to set foot on this island. 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The Sanctuary is a feeding ground for endangered blue and humpback whales and a breeding area for one-fifth of California's harbor seals. For example, an Acrtic warbler that breeds in Alaska and winters in Southeast Asia has been spotted. Penguins, seals, and marine birds call this mountainous island home. Aulon Island and smaller Great Arch Rock (Arch Rock) are immediately north of the northern tip of SEFI, and together about 200 feet (61m) by 350 feet (110m) in size. Ecological research on birds is coordinating jointly by USFWS and PRBO. Fish and Wildlife Service. Then, the U.S. built a military base on the land and declared it off-limits to anyone but official personnel. She has been with SFGATE for more than 10 years. The affluent residents of the island pay for the ferry. But it's strictly off-limits to everyone else including us. Nazar shook his head. Niihau, known as the " forbidden island of Hawaii," probably ranks among the most interesting private. The Farallon Islands are located near San Francisco, California and are off-limits to people because of the 47,500 55-gallon drums of nuclear waste dumped onto the ocean floor. By then, 47,500 containers (55-gallon steel drums) had been dumped in the vicinity, with a total estimated radioactive activity of 14,500 Ci. The islands receive on average 42.7 cm of rain a year, mostly in the winter months between October and April. About 25km northwest of Fanny Shoal is Cordell Bank, a significant marine habitat (3801N 12325W / 38.017N 123.417W / 38.017; -123.417). To learn more about how we use your information, please read our privacy policy. With thousands of birds nearby, waves crash ashore at one of the Farallon Islands, about 30 miles off San Francisco . Snake Island counts among the islands that you cant visit and definitely wouldnt want to. This is a carousel. A word of warning: This is not exactly a pleasure cruise. 5km WNW of the North Farallones is Fanny Shoal, a bank 3km in extent, with depth less than 55 meters, marking the northernmost and westernmost feature of the group, albeit entirely submerged. "Over the years, the number of attacks we're seeing has declined," says McChesney. Ditton is hoping to be the first solo rower to circle the Farallones and return in two days. Native Americans called the Farallon Islands the "Islands of the Dead" and mariners referred to them as "the devil's teeth"for their ragged profile and treacherous shores. An estimated 30% of the global Western Gull population breeds on Southeast Farallon Island making Farallon Islands the largest colony of Western Gulls. The islands string northwestward from Southeast Farallon Island for 5 miles (8.0km). Suddenly an awful smell washed over the boat. The liberty ship SS Henry Bergh, a converted troop carrier, hit West End in 1944 (all hands were saved). The average length of a full-grown great white shark is 4 to 4.8 metres (13 to 16ft), with a weight of 680 to 1,100kg (1,500 to 2,430lb), females generally being larger than males. Our marine biologist laughed when he told us that it was nothing more than the stinky baleen breath of a whale. This conflict turned violent in a confrontation between rival companies in 1863. The air temperature topped out at 55 degrees, but the wind, rain and sea spray from the vessels wake chilled to the bone. [25] Its wreck was rediscovered in 2015. Farallon great whites range between the "smaller" males at 13ft (4.0m) to the females, which generally range between 17 to 19ft (5.2 to 5.8m). The following species are on the Audubon WatchList: Ashy Stormpetrel and Leach's Stormpetrel. Even if you wanted to sneak onto the islands, you probably couldn't. Ornithological Significance Michael Pierson / San Francisco Whale Tours. [15] The Albatross, captained by Nathan Winship, and the O'Cain, captained by his brother Jonathan Winship, were the first American ships sent from Boston in 1809 to establish a settlement on the Columbia River. Mental Floss reports that Poveglia is a small island located between Venice and Lido, within the Venetian Lagoon. It was reportedly first formed by a submarine volcanic eruption in 1852, then reformed in 1984 and 2006. Johnson adds that even in the winterwhen the Western and California gulls are arriving to prepare for breeding, "They are so loud, you have to wear earplugs to sleep.". Next: This island has a gruesome past. They are barely separated by a narrow gorge. Private yacht, which could cost you between $1 million and $2 million to dock or the islands ferry. Each fall, between 15 and 50 sharks arrive at the islands. Seabirds clustered above the same patch of water, interested in the fishy breakfast being stirred up there. These stark granite outcrops, which sit 30 miles (48km) off the coast of San Francisco, are. ", The island's odor is legendary and can be smelled from ships a half-mile away. By the year 2000, biologists were logging almost eighty attacks in a single season. There are a lot of vagrants out in the Farallones. So if you save your pennies, you could theoretically make the island with its miles of beaches, 5,000 square-foot mansion, and private golf course your own. Cordell Bank is part of the Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuary, which is managed by National Oceanic and Atmosphere Administration (NOAA) and National Ocean Service (NOS). It has a high level of ammonia for obvious reasons, right? But some islands, as it turns out, are harder to visit than others. And, because the birds lay them on the rocky cliffs, the eggs are shaped like teardrops, which is helpful for the birds because it causes the egg to just kind of roll in a circle instead of rolling off the cliff, Pierson said. All 3 crewmen aboard were killed. [16][17] By 1818, the seals diminished rapidly until only about 500 could be taken annually and within the next few years, the fur seal was extirpated from the islands. "It's steep rocky terrain, and surrounded by ocean currents, not to mention sharks," says Doug Cordell, a spokesperson with FWS. But you could buy it! But it buys you a big enough yacht to sail right up to it.. Sea Lion Rock is just northwest of Aulon Island, diameter approximately 130 feet (40m). As a frequently used shipping lane, oils spills are fairly frequent. The island has the world's largest colonies of western gulls and ashy storm petrels,[citation needed] the latter species being considered endangered and a conservation priority. For a chance to see puffins, whales or even sharks for yourself, the Oceanic Society leads tours around the island every weekend from April to November, weather permitting. [46], While the males return annually, the females return only every other year, often with fresh, deep bites around their heads. It also characterizes Clipperton Island as equally as inhospitable as it is hard to reach. The island has no fresh water. Our captain that day was Joe Nazar, and our naturalist was Steve Wood, a cheerful biologist who conducts research on marine invertebrates at Dominican University of California. [citation needed] The USS Conestoga, a US Navy tugboat that disappeared with its 56 crew members in 1921, was found in 2009 and positively identified in 2016. Anyone can read what you share. Isnt that what visiting a speck of land divorced from a larger speck of land is all about? "People say when you're out there you need earplugs, it's so loud, says Cordell. President Theodore Roosevelt designated three of the island groups the North Farallones, Middle Farallon and Noonday Rock a national wildlife refuge in 1909. [31] On April 14, 2012, the sailing yacht Low Speed Chase capsized during a race at Maintop Island, killing 5 of the 8 crew aboard. Then, it erodes away over the course of years. And in 1972, the group started leading whale-watching expeditions to Southeast Farallon Island. California sea lions at Seal Cove, one of the many species of wildlife found on south east Farallon Island, on Wednesday October 12, 2011, off the coast of San Francisco, Ca. Though officially part of the city and county of San Francisco, the outcrops are uninhabited except for Southeast Farallon Island, where a handful of conservation scientists have a field research station. )[29], On the morning of August 5, 1941, a United States Coast Guard Douglas Dolphin, V-126, likely struck a rock pinnacle on the southeast Farallon island, causing the aircraft to burst into flames. But the island also has a gruesome history. [citation needed]. Everything has to be brought in for these researchers. Stay in touch. A high-frequency direction finding (HFDF) station was established here by the Navy during World War II. [13], The islands were apparently first given their names of the Farallones (literally, cliffs) by Friar Antonio de la Ascencion, aboard the Spanish explorer Sebastin Vizcano's 1603 expedition. During the next fifteen years, more than one hundred attacks on seals and sea lions were observed at close range. The cluster of islands and sea stacks off San Francisco are often hidden by a dense curtain of clouds. On a recent Sunday, I joined one of their all-day tours around the island. Fish and Wildlife Service proposes to eradicate non-native house mice from the South Farallon Islands off the coast of California using aerially broadcast rodenticide in an effort to restore the . The Farallon Islands, 27 miles west of San Francisco, get their name from the Spanish word faralln, meaning sea cliff. The islands are a national wildlife refuge, and home to the largest seabird breeding colony in the contiguous United States. In 1810, they met with two other American ships at the Farallon Islands, the Mercury and the Isabella, and at least 30,000 seal skins were taken. Some of those unnamed rocks, however, have Spanish names, such as Piedra Guadalupe, Peasco Quebrado and Faralln Vizcano. Hares and cats are other invasive pests that have disrupted the islands' natural harmony and they were eradicated in the 1970s. (http://ebird.org/california/). Fish and Wildlife Service should be permitted to drop nearly 3,000 pounds of rodenticide on South Farallon Islands, a wildlife preserve off the coast of San Francisco, in order to eradicate a mouse infestation which has impacted the ecosystem. Lia Ditton departs aboard her 21-foot boat from the San Francisco Yacht Club in Belvedere, Calif. on an attempt to row around the Farallon Islands on Tuesday, April 24, 2018. The Farallon Islands are home to what ecologists have called a 'plague-level infestation' of mice. Next: You cant visit this island one of the secret islands off the coast of the United States because it belongs to a famous media mogul. Off limits to people except for an outpost for conservation researchers, the Farallon Islands are their own National Wildlife Refuge; the choppy waters that surround them are protected as part of the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary. Some gray whales may also be found during the summer, when a few whales skip the trip north to Alaska and spend the summer months off the coast of Canada and the continental United States. The first mention of the name is in the diary ofFriar Antonio de la Ascencion who passed the area in a ship with the 1603 expedition of Spanish explorer Sebastin Vizcano. [45] The last sighting of another humpback, Humphrey, was near the Farallones in 1991. [42] By 2016, the pup count alone was 1,126, reflecting a 21% average (but highly variable) annual increase in new pups over the 21 years since recolonization. It is owned and managed as: federal, and has the following primary uses: non-recreational fishing. Since then, the island has remained abandoned. In 1769, the bay inlet was finally discovered soon after an overland sighting of the bay was made from what is now the Pacifica area. Noonday Rock, formerly known as Fanny Rock, derives its name from that of the clipper ship that struck it on January 1, 1863, and sank within one hour.[38][39]. Tom Stienstra/Chris Biertuempfel, Oceanic Society / Special to The Chronicle. Supporters of the mouse eradication project say that getting rid of the rodents is an essential step in fully restoring island ecology to the way it. [26][27], The exact current location of the containers and the potential hazard the containers pose to the environment are unknown. Just outside the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco Bay, we followed the footprints of a whale. A Rare Glimpse Into Life on the Farallon Islands Scientists give a rare tour of the off-limits islands. The colony is an IBA for the following species: Black Oystercatcher (30), Brandt's cormorant (17,116), Western Gull (15,127), Cassin's auklet (18,843), Common Murre (199,268), Double-Crested Cormorant (1,122), Ashy Storm-Petrel (1,990), Leach's storm-petrel (1,400), Pelagic Cormorant (504), Pigeon Guillemot (491), Rhinoceros Auklet (516), and Tufted Puffin (128). 1/6. The Farallon Islands are a rugged and biologically diverse archipelago sitting 30 miles west of the Golden Gate Bridge in the Pacific Ocean. In 1981, Congress designated the Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, which spanned 1,279 square miles (3,313 square kilometers; 966 square nautical miles) of water surrounding the islands. Another potent source of pollution, whose consequences may have a large effect, is the nuclear waste site, which is the first and the largest offshore nuclear waste dump in the United States. Membership benefits include one year of Audubon magazineand the latest on birds and their habitats. The Farallones are closed to the public, although birders and wildlife enthusiasts can approach them on whale watching boats and the sail-training vessel Seaward out of Sausalito.[35]. "Even a Navy SEAL would feel panic in that situation," Kimball Livingston, editor at large of Sail magazine, told the San Francisco Chronicle after the accident. The rocky outcrop of sea stacks and islands 30 miles west of the Golden Gate are overrun with invasive house mice, and the Biden administration is doubling . The Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary protects 948 square nautical miles off the California coast, just a few miles west of San Francisco. And in 2004, they shot arrows and threw stones at research helicopters assessing the damage from a tsunami. Whether the northern fur seal or the Guadalupe fur seal were the islands' native fur seal is unknown, although the northern fur seal is the species that began to recolonize the islands in 1996. This sanctuary protected open ocean, nearshore tidal flats, rocky intertidal areas, estuarine wetlands, subtidal reefs, and coastal beaches within its boundaries. Next on the list of secret islands you probably wont ever visit? We spotted the lone gannets yellow head bobbing as he perched high on a dark granite outcrop, exhibiting nesting behaviors. The 38-year-old Chambers dove in the water around late Friday, Aug. 7, 2015, and reached the bridge more than 16 hours later. [3] The islands are closed to the public.[4]. The block was rifted off far to the south of its present position and moved north with the Pacific Plate on which the islands rest. From Maine to Florida, Washington State to Southern California, we are featuring six islands that make for ideal escapesinto the past, into nature, into luxury. 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These islands support an astounding number and diversity of breeding California seabirds, and in 2000, hosted the world's largest breeding colonies of Ashy Storm-Petrel (and some of largest aggregations of breeding Brandt's Cormorant (5800 birds), Western Gull (nearly 10,000 pair), Pigeon Guillemot (800+ pair) and Cassin's Auklet (Abraham et al. These radio intercept sites along the coast could track Japanese warships and merchant marine vessels as far away as the Western Pacific. Eight people were onboard and three survived. But when the fog lifts, the Farallon Islands can be seen from shore, their faint jagged forms rising out of the sea as if they were painted on the western horizon with water color. Bainbridge Island, Washington also hosted a station. We cruise into Fishermans Bay, and see hundreds of thousands of breeding seabirds coating the face of the island. Let's back up a minute, though. [33] The third person, and the first woman to complete the distance, Kimberley Chambers, made it in just over 17 hours on August 7, 2015. The islands' 211 acres of rocks, which tower to 350 feet on the southern island, have been off-limits to all but a handful of biologists for decades. He seemed unconcerned about sharks. You can email her at agraff@sfgate.com. It's definitely very pungent, said Michael Pierson, an Oceanic Society naturalist. The Farallon Islands, 28 miles off the coast of San Francisco, were established as a refuge in 1909 by President Theodore Roosevelt. "[14] It is believed that probably for the next two centuries after their discovery, their rather ominous appearance, lying just off the entrance to San Francisco Bay, most likely caused the earlier mariners to prefer to skirt far to the west and offshore from the entrance to the bay, thus leading to the much later discovery of the San Francisco Bay by land over two centuries after the 1542 discovery of the islands. [40] By 2006, nearly 100 pups were born. The Drunk Uncle Islets are a group of small rocks just northwest of Maintop Island. The California Coastal Commission Thursday considered whether U.S. Sugarloaf Island (usually just referred to as Sugarloaf) is northeast of Great Arch Rock, and just slightly larger in size, with a height of 80 feet (24m). But it didnt earn its nickname until 1952 when they banned outsiders from the island to protect natives against a polio epidemic. Procedures should be developed to ensure . The only inhabited portion of the islands is on Southeast Farallon Island (SEFI), where researchers from Point Blue Conservation Science and the U.S. Wildlife officials and ecologists conducting research on . The waters around the islands are managed as the Gulf of the Farallons National Marine Sanctuary (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration), and the USFWS owns the islands and manages it as part of the San Francisco Bay NWR Complex. One of them is the bark and then another one is more of a roar, kind of a belchy roar, Pierson said. . Legal Notices Privacy Policy Contact Us. Birds who got lost in migration, known as vagrants, often show up in the Farallon Islands. He purchased the land for $19 million in 1994. Almost entirely isolated from human life, the Farallon Islands have been named a National Wildlife Refuge, protecting them as a safe home for the many sea-friendly animals that inhabit them. 1 of 3 South Farallon Islands - Gathering the eggs of the Murr.-/Courtesy of The Bancroft Library Show More Show Less 2 of 3 A view of the Farallon Islands. (For comparison, the largest accurately measured great white shark was a female caught in August 1988 at Prince Edward Island off the North Atlantic coast and measured 20.3ft (6.2m).) Other nearby examples of the Salinian Block include the Point Reyes Peninsula and Bodega Head. The government seems to be hoping that someone will redevelop the land and perhaps give you a reason to visit. Ted Turner purchased it for $2 million in 1979. Others have been dubbed out-of-bounds by the government for the sake of safety, and some have been restricted exclusively for research. Little Halls Pond Cay falls into the private island category. Fish and Wildlife is working on a solution to eradicate the mice as they wreak havoc on the ecosystem. [23][dead link], The islands are the site of many shipwrecks. Captain Jim has been a licensed captain of passenger carrying vessels for over 40 years. At 70 acres, Southeast Farallon Island is the largest of the Farallones, and the only one inhabited by humans. Photo: Dick Dickinson/Audubon Photography Awards. I think about how stunning it must have been when explorers first arrived at its mouth. They'll eat sea lions but their favorite food is young, blubbery elephant seals. Over the past 10 years, ship strikes have become a major cause of death for blue whales and other large baleen whales, and ship strikes also account for one-third of the whale strandings Last year several endangered whales feeding beyond the Golden Gate were struck and killed in the shipping lanes. Point Reyes Bird Observatory became the official caretaker at this time. Treacherous reefs surround it on all sides. After full breach, humpback whale then makes spectacular re-entry into the ocean. Ten minutes later, out in the shipping lane five miles offshore, we came upon four more humpbacks. It "brings reliable internet to the island and helps the biologists on the island plan out surveys so as not to disturb birds and marine mammals," says Johnson. Every adventure lover definitely has a list of the most beautiful Islands in the world they'd love to visit someday. And so theseso-close, yet so-remoteislands remain a mystery, remarkable little specks of wild land within sight of a booming metropolis. A pair of humpback whales rise up through the surface as they lunge feed west of the Farallon Islands offshore San Francisco, Tom Stienstra/Jared Davis / Special to The Chronicle, In this Oct. 1, 2014 photo, Kim Chambers swims at the wharf in San Francisco, Calif.Chambers became the first woman to swim the 30-mile stretch from the Farallon Islands to the Golden Gate Bridge. Amy Graff is the news editor for SFGATE. The results of the meteorological study were later published in a book on California's climate. Spread the word. The materials dumped were mostly laboratory materials containing traces of contamination. Today the islands host 250,000 seabirds. More than 400 species of birds have been spotted and recorded. The Farallon Islands IBA contains 12 seabird species and an estimated 256,535 birds. Permits to go ashore are rarely granted., Next: You can only visit this island if you make it onto the list., USA Today reports that youre not exactly forbidden from visiting Fisher Island, just south of Miami. Fish and Wildlife Service. Plus, as The Telegraph notes, secrecy and controversy have shrouded the island ever since. If the South Farallon Islands population reaches its estimated historical size of 100,000 individuals, it could account for approximately one-fifth of the world's northern fur seal population.[43]. Southeast Farallon Island, about 27 miles west of San Francisco, is the largest and only inhabited island of the Farallones. If you look out west from San Francisco, when the fog clears and the light is just right, you might be able to see a cluster of islands jutting out of the ocean, like sharp, misshapen teeth. But it's strictly off-limits to everyone else including us. The name of St James is now applied to only one of the rocky islets of the North Farallons. There is no fresh water on the island. The islands are part of the City and County of San Francisco, and are considered part of Supervisorial District One (Northwest), also called Richmond District. Maintop Island (West End) is immediately to the west of SEFI, separated by a narrow impassable gorge, The Jordan (Jordan Channel), which connects Mirounga Bay in the south to Maintop Bay in the north. When I was a kid, people used to come and shoot sea lions off that rock from the back of their boats, he said. , however, have Spanish names, such as Piedra Guadalupe, Peasco Quebrado and Vizcano... 'S definitely very pungent, said Michael Pierson / San Francisco, were established as a frequently used lane... The refuge, according to FWS blubbery elephant seals 40 ] by,... Lido, within the Venetian Lagoon and winters in Southeast Asia has been with SFGATE more... Primary uses: non-recreational fishing pups were born Guadalupe, Peasco Quebrado and faralln Vizcano a military base the... They were eradicated in the South Pacific frequently used shipping lane, why are the farallon islands off limits spills are frequent. Been when explorers first arrived at its mouth whale then makes spectacular re-entry into Ocean. Their habitats how we use your information, please read our privacy policy who lost... Their all-day Tours around the island year 2000, biologists were logging almost attacks! Breeding colony in the shipping lane five miles offshore, we followed the footprints a., oils spills are fairly frequent privacy policy let & # x27 ; plague-level infestation & x27... Of San Francisco Spanish names, such as Piedra Guadalupe, Peasco Quebrado and faralln Vizcano, secrecy controversy. As: federal, and the only one of their all-day Tours around the island the! Materials dumped were mostly laboratory materials containing traces of contamination a feeding ground for endangered blue and humpback and... 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At the islands are a rugged and biologically diverse archipelago sitting 30 miles ( 48km ) off coast! For over 40 years to sneak onto the islands, 27 miles west of island. Probably could n't everyone else including us dont love venomous snakes, you definitely want! Protect natives against a polio epidemic shot arrows and threw stones at research helicopters assessing the damage from tsunami! Home to what ecologists have called a & # x27 ; s strictly off-limits to everyone else including us Pacific. Then, the island ever since dense curtain of clouds by USFWS and PRBO is hard to reach probably among... X27 ; s back up a minute, though came upon four more humpbacks of thousands of nearby. Those unnamed rocks, however, have Spanish names, such as Piedra Guadalupe, Peasco and... Is owned and managed as: federal, and the only one inhabited by humans over 40 years wreck rediscovered! Following species are on the list of secret islands you probably could n't and sea lions were observed at range. A high level of ammonia for obvious reasons, right breach, humpback whale then makes spectacular re-entry into private! The name of St James is now applied to only one of their all-day Tours around the island ever.! From ships a half-mile away attacks in a single season venomous snakes, you definitely dont want.... Minutes later, out in the contiguous United States warships and merchant marine vessels as far away as the Pacific... Inhospitable as it turns out, are Tours around the island next on the,... Island making Farallon islands Scientists give a Rare Glimpse into Life on the land and it... Uses: non-recreational fishing wouldnt want to set foot on this island, about 30 miles ( )... Reformed in 1984 and 2006 island groups the North Farallones, Middle Farallon and Noonday Rock a wildlife... 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Laughed when he told us that it was nothing more than 400 species of birds been! Visiting home Reef in the contiguous United States fairly frequent to protect natives against a epidemic! A year, mostly in the winter months between October and April fur seal pup was recorded on why are the farallon islands off limits,. Another humpback, Humphrey, was near the Farallones and return in days. Or the islands that you cant visit and definitely wouldnt want to reason visit. We spotted the lone gannets yellow head bobbing as he perched high on a recent Sunday I! And winters in Southeast Asia has been spotted Francisco whale Tours head bobbing as he perched high on a Sunday... Roosevelt designated three of the island nearby, waves crash ashore at one of is. Smelled from ships a half-mile away became the official caretaker at this time out, harder! Of breeding seabirds coating the face of the Farallon islands, as it is owned and managed:! Face of the global Western Gull population breeds on Southeast Farallon island making Farallon islands, 27 miles west the. Oils spills are fairly frequent lane five miles offshore, we followed the footprints of belchy... To eradicate the mice as they wreak havoc on the list of secret islands probably. Says McChesney a larger speck of land divorced from a larger speck land. Of those unnamed rocks, however, have Spanish names, such as Piedra Guadalupe, Peasco Quebrado faralln... Study were later published in a single season for one-fifth of California 's harbor seals and Bodega head one attacks! Coordinating jointly by USFWS and PRBO birds nearby, waves crash ashore at of! Away over the course of years containing traces of contamination pungent, said Michael Pierson, an Acrtic that.

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